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Archive for the ‘Structures’ Category

I have earlier posted plans to create forced perspective in some areas of my layout. The vast vendor display area at the Narrow Gauge Convention featured a number of booths with attractive kits in HO and S scales.

I have earlier posted plans to create forced perspective in some areas of my layout. This involves using background structures and figures in smaller scales to trick the eye into thinking the layout is deeper than it really is. The vendor display area at the Narrow Gauge Convention featured a number of booths with attractive kits in HO and S scales. O scale is quarter inch to the foot, S scale is three sixteenths inch to the foot, and HO scale is approximately one eighth inch to the foot. I can use S scale material in the mid-background areas, and HO scale material in the extreme background of my O scale layout to achieve the forced perspective.

This HO scale kit by Wolf Designs is called the Iron Horse Press building

This HO scale kit by Wolf Designs is called the Iron Horse Press building. It is basically some nice flat rosin castings for the walls and roofs, with plastic castings for the windows, doors and smoke stacks.

I used painting and weathering techniques that I have used elsewhere on this blog. The most visible of these is probably the one for the deteriorating paint on the walls.

I used painting and weathering techniques that I have used elsewhere on this blog. The most visible of these methods is probably the one for the deteriorating paint on the walls, and the wear on the board sidewalk. Following a base coat, and letting it dry, I scraped some of the paint off with my track saw. I deliberately did a sloppy job of painting the trim and the window and door castings to suggest faded paint on these areas. I painted all the interior walls flat black in case I want to put lights in there. The window glazing is dusted with weathering powder.

Since this will be a background structure, I didn't waste time. or window castings, on walls that would not show.

Since this will be a background structure, I didn’t waste time. or window castings, on walls that would not show. I used rusty weathering chalks around the smoke jacks that protrude from the roofs. I painted the inside of this one rear-facing window with flat black so interior lighting wouldn’t hit my backdrop. The building extension doesn’t connect through to the main structure, so those open window holes won’t leak any light.

Here is a size comparison to an O scale ore bin that will go in the Silverton mining area.

Here is a size comparison to an O scale ore bin that will go in the Silverton mining area.

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This is the color postcard-sized picture that comes with the Hunterline King Post Truss Bridge kit.

This is the color postcard-sized picture that comes with the Hunterline King Post Truss Bridge kit. I have admired Hunterline products for several years, so when I had the opportunity to pick up this little bridge kit at the Narrow Gauge Convention in September, I bought it. You could scratch-build most of the Hunterline products from pictures or plans, but I thought I’d try one of their kits first.

The first step is to scrape some wood grain into the basswood supplied with the kit. I got over-eager, and stained my wood first, so I had to come back and do the wood grain after the stain had dried. That worked out alright, because I decided the wood needed a second dip in the stain anyway.

The first step is to scrape some wood grain into the basswood supplied with the kit. I got over-eager, and stained my wood first, so I had to come back and do the wood grain after the stain had dried. That worked out alright, because I decided the wood needed a second dip in the stain anyway. I use leather dye mixed with isopropyl alcohol for my stains.

The kit comes with plans for three different bridge widths, which I had not realized, but is a very nice feature. After some clearance testing on my 23 inch radii, I determined that the narrowest bridge, the 12 foot clearance, would work alright for me.

The kit comes with plans for three different bridge widths, which I had not realized, but is a very nice feature. My bridge will be on a curve, so after some clearance testing on my 23 inch radii, I determined that the narrowest bridge, at 12 scale feet wide, would work alright for me. I cut out that part of the plan, and taped it to a scrap of homasote, under some wax paper. I wanted to keep the bridge as small as possible to conserve space on the layout. I plan to have two of these bridges, separated by a snowshed, on the turn-back curve below my Silverton mining area.

Using the drawing I positioned and glued the bridge ties to the stringers.

Using the drawing I positioned and glued the bridge ties to the stringers. I used Elmer’s carpenter’s glue for this, applied very sparingly, and then I weighted the whole arrangement down overnight to insure a solid bond. You can see how the second application of stain left some variation in the coloring which I like. This is simply achieved by throwing all the ties into the stain, and then removing them one at a time. The first ties to come out are lighter in color, and the last ones are darker.

The kit comes with nut-bolt-washer castings, but they are extremely small, as you can see from the upper sprue in this picture. The lower sprue has larger castings from Grandt Line.

The kit comes with nut-bolt-washer castings, but they are extremely small, and hard to see, as you can tell from the upper sprue in this picture. I’m sure they are prototypical, but those on the lower sprue from Grandt Line, will be more visible.

The instructions call for the bridge ties to be bolted every fourth tie, and in the center of the bridge.

The instructions call for the bridge ties to be bolted every fourth tie, and in the center of the bridge. You can see what I mean about NBW casting visibility here.

Here is the bridge with the diagonal bracing in place. The long brace under the center of the bridge will pick up the central brace and the truss rod.

Here is the bridge with the diagonal bracing in place. The long brace under the center of the bridge will pick up the central brace and the truss rod.

I gave the completed bridge a dusting of rusty weathering chalk from AIM in the areas where the NBW castings were located. I also used some light brown weathering chalk from AIM generally on the other bridge surfaces. For the time being, I didn't seal this powder in with dullcoat, and maybe I never will. AIM suggests sealing the powders only if the model will be handled a lot, and bridges, once installed, don't fall into this category.

I gave the completed bridge a dusting of rusty weathering chalk from AIM in the areas where the NBW castings were located. I also used some light brown weathering chalk from AIM generally on the other bridge surfaces. For the time being, I didn’t seal this powder in with dullcoat, and maybe I never will. AIM suggests sealing the powders only if the model will be handled a lot, and bridges, once installed, don’t fall into this category.

A view of the other end of the bridge, showing a bit more of the truss rod.

A view of the other end of the bridge, showing a bit more of the truss rod.

My completed bridge. Compare this to the first photo in this post.

My completed bridge. Compare this to the first photo in this post.

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Wagons

Some people like to model the steam to diesel transition era so they can have both steam engines, and diesels on theOne of the reasons that I selected 1915 as the date of my layout

Some people like to model the steam to diesel transition era so they can have both steam engines, and diesel locomotives on their layout. One of the reasons that I selected 1915 as the date of my layout was so that I could have both horse drawn wagons and gasoline powered cars and trucks on my layout. At the Narrow Gauge Convention in Kansas City in September, I picked up a few nice little kits for horse drawn wagons. This one is the Grizzly Mountain Engineering Billboard Delivery Wagon. I pulled the Colgate sign from Google Images, and the driver is a figure by Railroad Avenue.

This is the Light Delivery Wagon from McKenzie Iron & Steel put out by Anvil Mountain Models.

This is the Light Delivery Wagon kit from McKenzie Iron & Steel put out by Anvil Mountain Models. The driver is by Railroad Avenue.

We had out of town visitors for Thanksgiving, so I threw some buildings and figures back on the Durango part of the layout.

We had out of town visitors for Thanksgiving, so I threw some buildings and figures back on the Durango part of the layout.

 

 

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A Water Tower for Texas

About a month ago I had an inquiry from a fellow in Texas about building him an O scale water tower to go with his Lionel Challenger and Mikado.  Since these are larger locomotives than my On30 narrow gauge, I

About a month ago I had an inquiry from a fellow in Texas about building an O scale water tower to go with his Lionel Challenger and Mikado. These are the same scale but larger locomotives than my On30 narrow gauge ones.  I knew I’d need to make the support section of the tank taller than the ones I made for my own layout, and I decided to make the circumference (and the corresponding volume) of the tank larger, too.

The first item on the agenda was to select a mailing tube of the required size.

The first item on the agenda was to select a mailing tube of the required size, and cut off the needed length.

I sealed one end of the tube with card stock, and measured how many basswood strips would be needed to enclose the tube,

I sealed one end of the tube with card stock, and measured how many basswood strips would be needed to enclose the tube.  The machinist square will help me get them glued on exactly perpendicular to the ground.

I always stain my stripwood before assembly, and I use isopropyl alcohol with a few drops of leather dye.  I keep various colors of stain in plastic containers like the one in the background of this photo that is marked "wire".

I always stain my stripwood before assembly, and I use isopropyl alcohol with a few drops of leather dye. I keep various colors of stain in plastic containers like the one in the background of this photo that is marked “wire”. I used scribed siding to cover the card stock on the bottom of the tank.  This area won’t show very much on the completed model.  This photo also shows the start of the leg assemblies that are made from 1/4″ square basswood stock.

For the tank bands I used Evergreen styrene strips that are .015 x .080 inches.  They are painted grimy black before being glued to the tank. I butt joined them

For the tank bands I used Evergreen styrene strips that are .015 x .080 inches. They are painted grimy black before being glued to the tank.

I butt joined them, and graduated the placement as the bands go up the sides.

I butt joined them, and graduated the placement as the bands go up the sides.  They were placed this way because the water pressure inside the tank was greater in the lower portion of the tank.  I’ll hide the butt joints behind the structure for the spout counter-weights.

A quick dunk in some rail weathering solution does a great job on these Grandt Line spout parts.

A quick dunk in some rail weathering solution does a great job on these Grandt Line spout parts.

The legs are completed.

The legs are completed.

I had some Grandt Line band tighteners, but they are made for tightening cable, and don't really look right on steel banding.  I decided to scratch build something that would look better.

I had some Grandt Line band tighteners, but they are made for tightening cable, and don’t really look right on steel banding. I decided to scratch build something that would look better. These are two small beads, and a short piece of wire, mounted on layered sections of the banding material.  I put them together with CA and Zip Kicker for speed, then painted them black.

They are a little less than 1/2" each, and I made one for each band on the tank.

They are a little less than 1/2″ long each, and I made one for each band on the tank.

Here is the start of the under-structure that fits between the legs and the tank body.

Here is the start of the under-structure that fits between the legs and the tank body. Since my friend in Texas wants the tank spout to operate by remote control, I’m cheating a bit on the spout pivoting system.  I’ve made other tanks with more prototypical chain support for the base of the spout, but the chain tends to break with repeated use.

I made the tank top with more of the scribed siding, and four battens.  The hatch handle is a small piece of bent piano wire, and I'll be putting Grandt Line hinges on later.

I made the tank top with more of the scribed siding, and four battens. The hatch handle is a small piece of bent piano wire, and I’ll be putting Grandt Line hinges on later.

I used the same water level scale I designed for some earlier tanks.  I just had to enlarge it a little for this one.  If you look closely, you can see those butt joints in the bands that I was talking about.

I used the same water level scale I designed for some earlier tanks. I just had to enlarge it a little for this one. If you look closely, you can see those butt joints in the bands that I was talking about.

At this point I decided to drill the legs for the truss rods.  Keeping them all aligned really helped with subsequent construction.

At this point I decided to drill the legs for the truss rods. Keeping them all aligned really helped with subsequent construction.

Here is the completed water level gauge.  The pulley at the top is made from an N scale wheel set. I cut it in half at the axle center, filed the axle points flat, and glued it back together with the wheels facing each other.

Here is the completed water level gauge. I later took some of the stark white out of it with a little dust bowl brown weathering powder. The pulley at the top is made from an N scale wheel set. I cut it in half at the axle center, filed the axle points flat, and glued it back together with the wheels facing each other.  I’ve made these before, and they can actually turn like a real pulley, but this one is glued in a fixed position.

I made the ladder on a jig I have for O scale ladders.  The frost box sides are ship lap siding.

I made the ladder on a jig I have for O scale ladders. The frost box sides are ship lap siding.

Because the joints on the ship lap siding showed too prominently, I went through with my back saw and

Because the joints on the ship lap siding showed too prominently, I went through with my back saw and grooved every joint deeper.

After that, another coat of stain helped blend the fake joints with the real ones.

After that, another coat of stain helped blend the fake joints with the real ones.

The spout has been drilled out and secured on a little brass pivot I made.

The spout has been drilled out and secured on a little brass pivot I made.

Another compromise with the prototype is the dummy enclosures for the spout counter-weights

Another compromise with the prototype is the dummy enclosures for the spout counter-weights.  My practical counter-weight will be inside the tank, attached by cables to the spout.  The cables will run through tiny holes in the upper tank side, behind this enclosure structure.

Grandt Line hinges in place on the hatch cover.

Grandt Line hinges in place on the hatch cover.

The frost box is complete.  Both ends of this piece are left open.  The actuating rod for raising and lowering the spout runs up through the frost box.

The frost box is completed with 3/32 angle on the corners. Both ends are left open. The actuating rod for raising and lowering the spout runs up through the frost box.

Various parts are test fit.  I put a card stock base under the legs to secure them.  This can be covered with ground materials.

Various parts are test fit. I put a card stock base under the legs to secure them. This can be covered with ground materials.

Top view.  I'll leave the tank top loose so we have access to the inside of the tank.  You'll see why that's necessary in a moment.

Top view. I’ll leave the tank top loose so we have access to the inside of the tank. You’ll see why that’s necessary in a moment.

Another view.

Another view.

.....and another.  the end of the chain from the water level gauge will drop through a small hole in the tank top.  The marker on the numerical scale is actually suspended by that chain, but I glued it in a fixed position at the pulley.

…..and another. the end of the chain from the water level gauge will drop through a small hole in the tank top. The marker on the numerical scale is actually suspended by that chain, but I glued it in a fixed position at the pulley.

These tanks leaked notoriously with age and changes in the weather, so the extremities, particularly the lower parts of the tank became encrusted with mineral scale from the water leaks.

These tanks leaked notoriously with age and changes in the weather, so the extremities, particularly the lower parts of the tank became encrusted with mineral scale from the water leaks.  I simulated this with a mixture of AIM dirty white weathering powder dissolved in alcohol.  I brushed this on with stokes from the bottom up.  The water level gauge scale has also been weathered in this photo.

Here's that little hole for the water level gauge chain. You just slip it into the hole when you cover the tank; it is not glued in, so the tank top can be removed.

Here’s that little hole for the water level gauge chain. You just slip it into the hole when you cover the tank; it is not glued in, so the tank top can be removed.

I waited until near the end of the project to glue the band tighteners on.  I know from experience that they can be easily knocked off.

I waited until near the end of the project to glue the band tighteners on. I know from experience that they can be easily knocked off.

After the legs were positioned and secured, I cut the truss rods to length and used NBW castings on each end to hold them in place.  I used Bragdon's rust weathering powder wherever there were metal parts.

After the legs were positioned and secured, I cut the truss rods to length and used NBW castings on each end to hold them in place. I used Bragdon’s rust weathering powder wherever there were metal parts.

I was initially going to use chain to suspend the spout, but with previous tanks, I've had trouble with that little scale chain breaking, so I used a heavy needlepoint thread I got from Michael's.  A little weathering, and it looks a lot like braided cable.

I was initially going to use chain to suspend the spout, but with previous tanks, I’ve had trouble with that little scale chain breaking, so I used a heavy needlepoint thread I got from Michael’s. A little weathering, and it looks a lot like braided cable.

A view from t he water level gauge side.  This gauge, by the way, can be place on either side, and my client wanted it to the left of the spout.  I imagine real railroads placed them where they were most easily seen by the engineers and firemen.

A view from the water level gauge side. This gauge, by the way, can be place on either side, and my client wanted it to the left of the spout. I imagine real railroads placed them where they were most easily seen by the engineers and firemen.

Now to the animation.  I had to test this on my layout to see if it would work.  My Durango yard is built on a sandwich of 1/2" plywood and 1/2" homasote; one inch thick in total.

Now to the animation. I had to test this on my layout to see if it would work. My Durango yard is built on a sandwich of 1/2″ plywood and 1/2″ homasote; one inch thick in total.  The thickness of the layout determines part of the length of the spout actuating rod.

I drilled an inch and a 1/4 hole in the layout, and mounted a SwitchMaster switch motor beneath it on a piece of 1 x 4.  The mounting legs on the motor form one limit to the pivoting throw rod, and the dry wall screw to the right of the motor

I drilled a 1.5″ hole in the layout, and mounted a SwitchMaster motor beneath it on a piece of 1 x 4. There was nothing scientific about the hole diameter; I just had that size hole cutter available.  However, a nice large hole helps keep the linkage from binding. The mounting legs on the motor form one limit to the pivoting rod throw, and the drywall screw to the right of the motor forms the other limit.

The actuating rod is soldered to a small screw eye secured to the lead counter-weight inside the tank.  The little piece of styrene tubing helps to keep the "cable" from dragging on the holes through the tank side.

The actuating rod is soldered to a small screw eye secured to the lead counter-weight inside the tank. The little piece of white styrene tubing helps to keep the “cable” from dragging on the holes through the tank side.  I would have made a larger hole in the tank bottom, but the under structure limited me.  This hole seemed to work OK.

I used the measurements with which I had started the whole project, basically how high the locomotive tender fill hatches were, including track height.

I used the measurements with which I had started the whole project, basically how high the locomotive tender fill hatches were, including track height, and the stack height as the locomotive passes the tower.  From these I could determine the upper and lower limits of the spout travel.  The relationship of the actuating rod to the counter-weight determines the up and down end points of the spout travel.  The position of the drywall screw next to the SwitchMaster motor determines the total length of spout travel.  Both are adjustable.

With the animating mechanism removed from under the layout you can see the pivoting rod on the SwitchMaster, the actuating rod attached, and the stops for the pivoting rof.

With the animating mechanism removed from under the layout you can see the pivoting rod on the SwitchMaster, the actuating rod attached, and the stops for the pivoting rod.  To my great joy, the whole business works, and the water tower spout can now be controlled with whatever push buttons or DPDT switches are used for turnout control.  This model took 31.5 hours to finish over 15 building days.

 

 

 

 

 

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This is the photo on the cover of the box for the HO scale Timber Oil Derrick by Campbell Scale Models.

This is the photo on the cover of the box for the HO scale Timber Oil Derrick by Campbell Scale Models.  My original plan called for building this model, and simultaneously copying the parts in O scale.  Then I would sell the HO version, and build the O scale version for my layout.

As I started construction I became aware that the tower, which was 11 inches tall in HO scale would be nearly 22 inches tall in O scale.  That just seemed awfully large for my the space I had allotted on my layout.

As I started construction I realized that the tower, which was 11 inches tall in HO scale would be nearly 22 inches tall in O scale. That just seemed awfully large for the space I had available on my layout.

The gray squares on the track plan are one square foot each.  The base of this model in O scale would occupy a length of nearly two feet.

The gray squares on the track plan are one square foot each. The base of this model in O scale would occupy a length of nearly two feet.  I plan on having two spurs at the oil company, for convenience in dropping off loaded cars and picking up empties.  If space becomes a problem, the same switching move can be done by using the main, or two different cars could be located at the oil company at the same time.

Then I got the idea of enlarging the door openings, adding a couple of O scale windows, and adjusting the ladder step spacing...turning what was a large HO scale model into a modest size O scale one.

Back to the model, I got the idea of enlarging the door openings, adding a couple of O scale windows, and adjusting the ladder step spacing…turning what was a large HO scale model into a modest size O scale structure.

Here is a comparison of the alterations to the ladder.

Here is a comparison of the alterations to the ladder.

Like any craftsman wood kit, this one has a lot of small parts, and, fortunately a good set of instructions.

Like any craftsman wood kit, this one has a lot of small parts, and fortunately, a good set of instructions.

The front and back side of a single sheet has good drawings from all sides, and templates for some of the assemblies.

The front and back side of a single sheet has good drawings of all sides, and templates for some of the assemblies.

Here is the multi-faceted base platform.

Here is the multi-faceted base platform.

This is the completed four-sided tower.

This is the completed four-sided tower.

The tower including the upper sheaves, in place on the base platform.

The tower including the upper sheaves, in place on the base platform.

Here is an O scale figure next to one of the walls with an enlarged door opening, and a small O scale window.

Here is an O scale figure next to one of the walls with an enlarged door opening, and a small O scale window.

There was a good place on the other side of the model for a second O scale window.

There was a good place on the other side of the model for a second O scale window.

I took this photo because the interior of this area of the model would be mostly enclosed by the final wall.

I took this photo because the interior of this area of the model would be mostly enclosed by the final wall.

This photo shows some of the detail of the walking beam and the eccentric coupling that enables it to go up and down.

This photo shows some of the detail of the walking beam and the eccentric coupling that enables it to go up and down.

At this stage, the derrick is pretty well finished, and some weathering has been added.

At this stage, the derrick is pretty well finished, and some weathering has been added.

I added some drilling pipe to the pipe storage rack. These are made from different size plastic drinking straws

I added some drilling pipe to the pipe storage rack. These are made from different size plastic drinking straws, and the larger ones match the diameter of the pipes I put on the pipe gondolas I built some time ago.

Ground level view of the pipe storage rack and the walking beam.

Ground level view of the pipe storage rack and the walking beam.

Two oil workers.

Two oil workers.

And, on the other side of the derrick.

And, on the other side of the derrick.

The end by the engine house.

The end by the engine house.

One last view of the pipe rack.  I think I'll knock some of that rust coloring down with a little Dullcote.

One last view of the pipe rack. I think I’ll knock some of that rust coloring down with a little Dullcote.

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It has always been a plan of mine to have a Fire Hall in Durango.  One of the first things I do in designing scratch-built structures is to make a rough sketch.  This helps me to organize my basic ideas and see how the various elements I'm thinking about would fir together.

It has always been a plan of mine to have a Fire Hall in Durango. One of the first things I do in designing scratch-built structures is to make a rough sketch. This helps me to organize my basic ideas and see how the various elements I’m thinking about would fit together.  You’ll notice in the final drawings below, I seriously down-sized my bell tower.  It was overpowering everything else in this sketch.

Having a Fire Hall made of brick certainly makes sense.  I like the slightly more elaborate window treatment here.

Having a Fire Hall made of brick certainly makes sense, and I do have other brick buildings in my Durango.  I like the slightly more elaborate window treatment here.

On the other hand, lumber was a handier building material in the west.

On the other hand, lumber was a handier building material in the west.

I decided to go with a combination of materials.  I certainly have used brick in other Durango structures.  I'm also cobbling together some supplies I already have on hand.  Monster Model Works makes laser etched brick and wood siding sheets, Rusty Stumps makes the fancy windows and the warehouse door on the left.

I decided to go with a combination of materials. I’m also cobbling together some supplies I already have on hand. Monster Model Works makes laser etched brick and wood siding sheets, and the brick trim pieces.  Rusty Stumps makes the fancy windows and the warehouse door on the left.  Chooch Enterprises makes a flexible foundation stone wall.  Kaw Valley makes a nice external staircase.  I figure you can’t have a fire hall without a fire escape.  Grandt Line makes an assortment of small styrene castings, including a sheave wheel for the bell, and some gingerbread trim.  I’ll get a little Christmas bell from Michael’s.  This drawing is more to show the arrangement of details than for specific color ideas.  I have two fire engines.  One is a 1914 Model T Ford, and the other is a horse-drawn pumper.  Since my layout time period is 1915, my concept is that the fire hall was built around that time to house the newer engine, but the older vehicle was kept in the shed on the left, just in case they ever had a two-alarm fire.

Here is a side view.  As I have done with some other buildings in Durango, I have shortened the structure front to back.

Here is a side view. As I have done with some other buildings in Durango, I have shortened the structure front to back, but it still has plenty of depth for my fire engines.

    I might model one or both of the doors open and include some interior details. Lighting will also be on the menu.

I might model one or both of the doors open and include some interior details. Lighting will also be on the menu.

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This is a photo from Google Images of the Classic Miniatures kit I will be building in this post.

This is a photo from Google Images of the Classic Miniatures/Trout Creek Engineering kit I will be building in this post.

I've rearranged the track plan in the mining area to bring the 18 inch gauge track down to the tipple or ore bin.

I’ve rearranged the track plan in the mining area to bring the 18 inch gauge track (green) down to the tipple/ore bin.  I’ll be simulating this route with some N scale track.

It is very important as you start the assembly of this kit that you get the core structure as square in all dimensions as you can.  Here I'm using a number of tools simultaneously to insure that the central cube is square.

It is very important as you start the assembly of this kit that you get the core structure as square in all dimensions as you can. Here I’m using a number of tools simultaneously to insure that the central cube is square.

Here I've completed the the bin floor and walls.

Here I’ve completed the the bin floor and walls, and put in the vertical support rods.  You may have noticed that I’m only building half the width of the kit model.  I don’t have room or a need for the whole 4-chute version.

A couple of days later, the horizontal support rods, the ladders, and the approach track stringers and ties are in place.

A couple of days later, the horizontal support rods, the ladders, and the approach track stringers and ties are in place.

In this front view, you can see the bin chutes and their adjustable deflectors.  These last parts are just a heavy grade of paper, but they look like steel once they are painted and weathered.

In this front view, you can see the bin chutes and their adjustable deflectors. These last parts are just a heavy grade of paper, but they look like steel once they are painted and weathered.

This isometric view shows the chutes better.  The deflectors can actually be set at different angles.

This isometric view shows the chutes better. The deflectors can actually be set to different angles.

An overhead view shows how the track for the mine carts leads to the open top of the bin.

An overhead view shows how the track for the mine carts leads to the open top of the bin.

The third board for the walkway beside the chutes has to br cut to fit between the chutes, and it is not yet in place in this photo.

The third board for the walkway beneath the chutes has to be cut to fit between the chutes, and it is not yet in place in this photo.  NBW castings are used at the ends of the support rods, and they actually keep the rods in place.

This structure is designed to be situated on a hillside.  In truth, hillsides is the whole reason for the existence of

This structure is designed to be situated on a hillside. In truth, hillsides were much of the reason for the existence of these bins, that and a means to get ore from small hand pushed carts into larger ore gondolas on the regular rails.

The next step is to add some weathering with a combination of Bragdon powders for the rust effects, and AIM powder for the ore residue.

The next step is to add some weathering with a combination of Bragdon powder for the rust effects, and AIM powder for the ore residue.

Weathering at the top of the bin.

Weathering at the top of the bin.  Once I install it on the layout, I’ll add more loose ore effects.

The kit has a stone wall to go under the support at the front edge of the tipple. A quarter inch piece of balsa is provided, and some embossed paper to simulate stone.  I thought that Choose Enterprises flexible stone wall material would look better, so I'm building my wall with it.  This is the back side of the wall that will go against the hillside.

The kit has a stone wall to go under the support at the front edge of the tipple. A quarter inch piece of balsa is provided, and some embossed paper to simulate stone. I thought that Choose Enterprises flexible stone wall material would look better, so I’m building my wall with it. This is the back side of the wall that will go against the hillside.

A front/top view of the wall shows how I dovetailed the stones at the corners.  I also sanded the corner stones to get a more rounded look.

A front/top view of the wall shows how I dovetailed the stones at the corners. I also sanded the corner stones to get a more rounded look.

To finish the wall I gave it a thin coat of grimy black acrylic, and dry brushed it with depot buff.

To finish the wall I gave it a thin coat of grimy black acrylic, and dry brushed it with depot buff.

There is material in the kit for two trestle bents to support the approach track structure.  I built these at thir full height for now, using the template provided.

There is material in the kit for two trestle bents to support the approach track structure. I built these at their full height for now, using the template provided.

One tool that I find very useful in building wood kits is a simple bamboo shish-kabob stick

One tool that I find very useful for applying white glue when building wood kits is a simple bamboo shish-kabob stick.  Here I am using it to supply a small drop of glue to a hole drilled for an NBW casting.  The stick is about nine inches long, so it is very practical to get glue to places that would be to tight to reach with even a small glue bottle.

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